Evening coat ca. 1912 silk, metal Paul Poiret (1879–1944) This Poiret coat is a unique cultural and period blend of references drawn from the Japanese kimono in its shape and a textile which resembles Victorian wallpaper. Early Poiret designs, such as this one, utilize exaggerated narrow lines to emphasize the corset free silhouette which he supported throughout his career
1913 This mantle is made of bright yellow wool and lined with black chiffon. Based on a deconstructed kimono, it is composed of two rectangles folded on the shoulders and joined on one side with a stylised bow. It illustrates how Poiret was able to combine with rare harmony the bold colours of Fauvism, the vision of Cubism and the exoticism of Eastern garments. The striking costumes of the Ballets Russes had made Fauvism fashionable.