I like the fact that she has a nice amount of light exposing her and the fact that her hand has shadow on her face and neck. I dislike the fact her hand is in the air and that it's not actually doing anything.
Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing where experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves which are at least 20 feet m) high, on browse boards referred to as "guns" or towboards. Sizes of the board had to effectively surf these.
surf surfing surfer surfers waves big waves barrel barrels barreled covered up ocean sea water swell swells surf culture island islands beach beaches ocean water stoked hang ten drop in surf's up surfboard shore break surfboards salt life