From 1912 to Duke Kahanamoku won five Olympic medals, including three golds in swimming. He was sheriff of Honolulu from 1934 to 1960 and was the official greeter for the state of Hawai'i from 1960 until he died in This photo was taken in August
Greg Noll, Waimea Bay, 1962 - American pioneer of big wave surfing and is also acknowledged as a prominent longboard shaper. Noll was a member of a US lifeguard team that introduced malibu boards to Australia around the time of the Melbourne Olympic Games
Greg Noll ('Da Bull') contemplates one of the most fearless decisions in sport history: being the first surfer to attempt the biggest waves ever ridden. Photo by Surfer Magazine founder, John Severson, at Waimea Bay.
"Some people have Alcoholics Anonymous, Starbucks, church.I had Malibu."—Kathy Kohner (the real-life inspiration for Gidget who started surfing at the age of sometimes trading her peanut butter and radish sandwiches for chances to ride)