I’d only known lofty, dense New York cheesecakes topped with a layer of sour cream. I didn’t get the big deal. But a real New York cheesecake? Now that’s a different thing altogether: smooth, creamy, just sweet, and decadent without feeling cloying. In other words: perfection. There doesn’t seem to be one definition for the style, but the best I read described it as ‘unadulterated’ – just cream cheese, cream (or sour cream), sugar and eggs. As with anything simple, the art is in the act of ba...